DIY Cloth Menstrual Pads for Fit, Use, and Care

10 inches is a practical starter length for a moderate reusable cloth menstrual pad; choose the exact pattern size selected for a liner, postpartum use, overnight use, or bladder leakage. You can make a washable pad from a soft top layer, an absorbent core, a backing, and wing fasteners, then refine the shape after testing the fit at home.

What Reusable Cloth Menstrual Pads Need

A reusable pad has four working parts:

  • Top layer: The body-facing fabric. Soft cotton, cotton jersey, or flannel are approachable choices because they are comfortable to sew and wash.
  • Absorbent core: The middle layers that hold moisture. Flannel, cotton terry, and clean cotton towel fabric are common options.
  • Backing: The outer layer that sits against underwear. Cotton works for an all-fabric pad; a waterproof fabric can add extra protection.
  • Wings and closure: Fabric extensions that fold beneath the underwear gusset and fasten with snaps.

Before cutting, wash and dry any fabric you plan to use. This helps you avoid building a pad that changes shape after its first laundry day.

Avoid fabrics that are scratchy, heavily worn, shedding, coated with fragrance, or damaged with holes and thinning patches. A clean retired cotton T-shirt or flannel shirt can work well for a practice pad.

How to Make a Reusable Cloth Menstrual Pad

Gather soft cotton fabric, absorbent fabric, thread, scissors, pins or clips, paper or cardboard for a template, and snaps or sew-on fasteners. A sewing machine makes the process quicker, but you can sew a pad by hand with secure stitches.

Use this table to choose the materials and construction details for your pad before cutting.

Part Straightforward Starting Choice When to Choose Another Option
Moderate pad outline 10 inches long Choose a pattern intended for a liner, overnight use, postpartum use, or bladder leakage
Absorbent core 4 flannel layers Use the chosen pattern’s core-layer recommendation chart for a different level of absorbency
Waterproof backing PUL Leave it out for a fully cloth pad or use cotton as the backing
Closure Snaps Use sew-on snaps if you do not have snap-setting pliers

Step 1: Make a Winged Pad Template

  1. Draw a simple pad shape on paper or cardboard: a long center section with wings extending from the middle.
  2. For a moderate pad, make the finished outline 10 inches long. Choose the exact size from the intended-use pattern you selected rather than trying to make one size serve every purpose.
  3. To copy the shape of a disposable pad, place it on paper, trace around it, and add a ½-inch seam allowance around every edge.
  4. Keep the pattern symmetrical. Folding the paper in half before trimming the sides is an easy way to make both wings match.
  5. Cut out the paper template and label it so you know which pattern is for the outer pad and which is for the absorbent core.

Make the core template narrower and shorter than the full pad template. This keeps the bulky absorbent layers out of the curved edges and wings.

Step 2: Cut the Top, Backing, and Core Fabrics

  1. Place the full pad template on folded fabric or cut one layer at a time.
  2. For a common all-cotton construction, cut 2 cotton pieces in the full pad shape: one for the top and one for the outer backing.
  3. Cut your core pieces using the smaller core template.
  4. If you want a waterproof layer, use PUL for the pad’s waterproof backing. Your selected construction and fabric layout will determine whether the PUL replaces the outer cotton piece or sits as its own backing layer.
  5. Keep the scraps from the first pad until you have tested its fit. They can be useful for adjusting wing curves or trying a different core shape.

A stable woven cotton or flannel is usually easier for a first project than a very stretchy T-shirt knit. If you do use knit fabric, pin it carefully so it does not shift while sewing.

Step 3: Build the Absorbent Core

Choose one core arrangement rather than combining every fabric option into a single bulky pad.

For a moderate flannel core, stack 4 flannel layers and confirm the exact stack for your project with the chosen pattern’s core-layer recommendation chart. Align the layers carefully and pin or clip them near the edge.

For a hybrid absorbent section, arrange the fabrics with fleece on top, 1 layer of cotton beneath it, and towel underneath. In this stack, “top” means the side closest to the body-facing cotton once the pad is assembled.

Use a test core to judge thickness before buying more fabric.

Step 4: Secure the Core Layers

  1. Stitch around the outer edge of the core stack to hold its layers together.
  2. Center the finished core on the wrong side of the top cotton piece.
  3. For the fleece, cotton, and towel arrangement, sew 3 lines down the center to keep the layers from shifting and bunching.
  4. Keep the stitching inside the core area, not out into the wings, so the wings stay flexible enough to wrap around the gusset.

The core should lie flat. If it curls or feels overly thick at the edges, trim the core shape slightly before assembling the outer pad.

Step 5: Sew and Turn the Pad Shell

  1. Place the outer backing over the core and top fabric so the finished sides of the top and backing face inward.
  2. Pin or clip around the full outside edge, keeping the core centered between the two outer layers.
  3. Sew around the perimeter, leaving an opening wide enough to turn the pad right-side out.
  4. Carefully trim excess bulk from curved areas without cutting the stitching.
  5. Turn the pad right-side out through the opening, using a blunt tool to gently shape the wing curves.
  6. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward and sew it closed.
  7. Topstitch around the entire outside edge. This flattens the pad, reinforces the perimeter, and helps the wings keep their shape.

If you are hand-sewing, use secure backstitches at the beginning and end of each seam so the stitching does not unravel in the wash.

Step 6: Add Snaps and Finish the Pad

  1. Fold the wings around the underwear gusset to find the placement that lets them meet comfortably.
  2. Attach matching snap halves to the wing ends so the wings fasten beneath the underwear.
  3. Check that no sharp snap parts or rough thread ends face upward.
  4. Wash the finished pad before wearing it, then dry it completely.

Your first pad is also your fitting sample. Wear it at home first so you can tell whether the wings sit comfortably and the closure holds the pad in place.

Adjust the Pad for Different Uses

A pad that fits its intended use is usually more comfortable than one oversized pad meant to handle every situation.

For Lighter Days and Liners

Use a slimmer core and a shorter, narrower outline. A thinner pad is easier to fold, carry, and wear with close-fitting underwear.

For Heavier Days and Overnight Use

Choose a longer or wider outline for fuller coverage, and use the recommended core arrangement. Increasing absorbency works best when the wings can close without pulling.

If the Pad Shifts or Leaks

A pad that shifts often needs better wing placement or a more secure snap position. A pad that leaks at the sides may need a wider core or greater absorbency.

If moisture reaches the underwear through the backing, choose a design that includes PUL as the waterproof layer. If the pad feels too bulky, switch to a less thick core arrangement instead of simply making the entire pad larger.

Use, Carry, and Launder Cloth Pads

Place the soft top layer against your body and the backing against your underwear. Wrap the wings around the gusset and fasten the snaps.

Change a homemade pad every 4 to 8 hours, depending on the amount of menstrual bleeding. Change it sooner if it feels saturated, shifts out of place, or no longer feels comfortable.

For days away from home, carry clean pads and used pads separately. A small water-resistant zip pouch keeps a used pad contained until you can do laundry.

To wash reusable pads:

  1. Fold the used pad inward, with the used surface contained inside.
  2. Rinse with cool water if you are able to do laundry soon; this can help prevent staining.
  3. Wash with laundry detergent suitable for your fabrics.
  4. Check that the pad is visibly clean, including along the core stitching and wing seams.
  5. Dry it completely before storing or reusing it.

Do not share used reusable pads. Retire a pad if the fabric becomes damaged, the snaps stop holding, or the core no longer stays securely contained.

Check the Fit Before Making a Full Set

Inspect your finished sample for smooth layers, a flat backing, secure snaps, and seams that stay intact after laundering:

  • The top layer should lie smooth without exposed seams or loose threads.
  • The backing should remain flat.
  • The snaps should close securely.
  • The pad should come through laundering with its seams intact.

If you change the shape, adjust one feature at a time: wing width, core width, backing type, or closure placement. That makes it easier to tell which change improves the fit.

After noting changes from laundering and wear, make the rest of your washable pad set from the refined pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is the Best Fabric for Reusable Menstrual Pads?

There is no single best fabric for every pad. Soft cotton or flannel works well for the body-facing layer, while flannel, cotton terry, or towel fabric can form the absorbent core. PUL is a useful choice when you want a waterproof backing.

Can I Make Sanitary Pads From Old Clothes?

Yes, clean retired cotton clothing can become reusable pads. Cotton T-shirts, flannel shirts, and cotton towels are useful sources of fabric if they are soft, clean, and free from thin spots, holes, or rough seams. Cut around logos, thick hems, elastic, and worn areas.

Is There a Free Pattern for Making Cloth Menstrual Pads?

Yes, you can make a free pattern for a reusable cloth menstrual pad. A full pad template and a narrower, shorter core template help keep absorbent layers out of the curved edges and wings. You can make a free pattern by tracing a disposable pad onto paper and adding a ½-inch seam allowance around the edge. A symmetrical winged shape is easiest to sew and lets the pad fasten beneath underwear.

How Often Should I Change a Homemade Cloth Pad?

Change a homemade cloth pad every 4 to 8 hours, based on the amount of menstrual bleeding. Bring a clean replacement if you will be away from home, and keep the used pad in a separate water-resistant pouch.

Are Cotton Pads Good for Periods?

Cotton fabric pads can be a practical reusable option because cotton is soft, washable, and easy to sew. Cosmetic cotton rounds are not designed to work as menstrual pads; use cotton fabric with an absorbent core and a secure winged backing instead.